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I have always wanted to do a cruise, but for various and sundry reasons, it never happened. I decided this year would be the year. At one time, an ocean cruise on a giant ship was of interest, but now the thought of a cruise with 5,000 to 7,500 other passengers is as appealing as a colonoscopy to me.
River cruises, on the other hand, seem the best way to go. For this trip, I considered several options including a cruise on the Danube from Budapest to Germany and a cruise on the Nile in Egypt, but in the end, I decided to take an Avalon cruise on the Seine in France. France had not been very high on my list of countries I wanted to visit. The reputation of the French and how they treat American tourists was always in the back of my mind. Because of the cruise, I didn’t have a lot of interactions with the locals, but I didn’t personally experience any of the treatment from the French for which they have become somewhat infamous.
The cruise starts and ends in Paris. I am particularly excited about going to Normandy. I have always had a huge interest in WWII history and visiting the beaches where the Allies (including my dad) came ashore in the summer of 1944 is very near the top of my bucket list.
Day 1 – Monday, March 30
The trip got off to a good start. My Uber driver earned a big tip by finding a shortcut to the ferry and dropping me off just three minutes before departure, thereby saving me an hour of waiting time for the next one to arrive. And just two days earlier, the fast ferry to Valletta wasn’t even running because of rough seas. Today, smooth sailing.
I always get to the airport very early, because the lounge at the airport in Malta is very comfortable with great food. I was there four hours before departure with a book and an appetite. For the first time, however, the electronic gate to security wouldn’t let me pass because I was TOO early. So, I sat among the commoners with my book and reluctantly bought a cappuccino (the free ones taste so much better!) and killed an hour before being able to access the lounge.

The nonstop flight to Paris Orly was right on time. Two hours and 40 minutes from wheels up to wheels down. I love how I can get just about anywhere in Europe from Malta in 3 hours or less! After a chilly wait of about 25 minutes for the hotel shuttle, I grabbed a quick dinner of Tiger prawn Pad Thai (19 Euros) at the hotel and was in bed by 10:30 p.m.
Day 2 – Tuesday, March 31
I woke up at 3:30 a.m. and couldn’t get back to sleep. No bueno! After tossing and turning for an hour, I gave up on sleeping. So, I was first in line at the breakfast buffet and headed out to find the cruise boat to drop off my stuff before a bit of sightseeing.
The tram stop was right outside the hotel, and an hour later after a tram and two metro trains, I found the boat. There I was shown to my room and met some of the crew. Both the crew and the room were very nice!
From there, I got back on the Metro and headed to Montmartre where I had a wonderful lunch at a small cafe called Armande where I was joined by a lovely Parisian who ordered in French for us a delicious assortment of dishes. She then showed me around the area in 50-degree weather under gray, threatening skies.




I was back on the boat by 4:30 where I got settled in the room before the 6 p.m. safety meeting with the cruise director, a Bosnian named Marko, and the ship’s captain. That’s where I met Jane and Steve, a very nice and interesting retired couple from Boston. We immediately hit it off and they invited me to join them at dinner. I would end up spending a good deal of time with them during the week. We sat with Ron and Suzanne, a very friendly couple from the Dallas area. (Pictures of both couples come later.) There were three other ladies traveling together from St. Louis at our table.
Dinner was delicious: escargots de vin blanc (sounds better than snails, no?), smooth lobster soup with cognac foam, and filets de Saint-Pierre (grilled John Dory on mango-coriander relish) with ricotta saveur citron (lemon ricotta with berries) for dessert.




I’m tired, so back to the room by 9:30. On the way, I check out the fitness facility. It’s a bit disappointing but most of the guests aren’t here to work out. I’m going to gain some weight this week, I fear.
Day 3 – Wednesday, April 1
I’m up at 3:00 a.m. working on my blog because I can’t sleep again. I really hope this isn’t a developing pattern.
The breakfast buffet was very nice including a made-to-order omelet station. The morning activity was a guided bus tour, with Phillippe our guide, of the major Paris tourist attractions including …






We went back to the boat for lunch and then off to Versailles. It was magnificent and the best part was that our little group of 14 had access with our tour guide to many rooms not available to the horde of other tourists.







We were back to the boat by about 5:30 p.m. I sat with Jane and Steve again at dinner. Jane is hell-bent on fixing me up with someone and tells me that she has a number of girlfriends back in the Boston area who would love to meet me. I laugh – I’m still thinking about my tour guide back in Montmartre.
I chose cocktail de crevettes a la Normande (Normandy style shrimp cocktail) for the appetizer, soup cremeuse au chou-fleur (cauliflower soup), red beet sauerkraut with grilled shepherd’s cheese, thyme honey and parsley potatoes (might sound better in French, no?) and fresh fruit for dessert. Believe it or not, the red beet sauerkraut was the star of the meal.


The after dinner entertainment was a troupe of Can-can dancers. A very fun and lively show. I was ready for bed immediately after, about 10:00 p.m.
Day 4 – Thursday, April 2
The boat is underway and we are headed to Conflans today. I grabbed a light breakfast and sat next to a couple from Japan. Ki is Japanese; John is an American ex-pat. Everyone wants to hear my story about ending up in Malta.
I decided to grab a workout because we are on the river and won’t have an excursion until this afternoon. In the fitness room stands Alex, the Adventure Host, who shows me how to operate a fitness machine that I have never seen before. It’s hi-tech and complicated, but he shows me how to do 6 exercises and I get a surprisingly good workout. Perhaps I judged it too harshly earlier – a good lesson in not judging a book by its cover.

We arrived at Conflans (the confluence of the Oise and Seine Rivers) at 1:30.

After lunch, I hopped on a bus to Chateau de Malmaison, home to Napoleon Bonaparte and Josephine.




For dinner, more good company. Most every meal, I sat with someone new and had the best time hearing about where they were from, where they had traveled, etc. By this time, I had met mostly Americans, but there were also quite a few Canadians and some Aussies along with John and Ki from Japan.
I had cuisses de grenouille a la Normande (sauteed frog legs), veloute de tomate (smooth tomato soup), joues de boeuf braisees (braised beef cheeks with roasted veggies and celery mashed potatoes), and for dessert tartelette aus pommes (thin apple tart). Another really good dinner.




I relaxed in the lounge after dinner. Watching a bunch of gray-haired folks dance to the oldies including “YMCA” by The Village People was not the highlight of my day.
Day 5 – Friday, April 3
I was up at 4:00 a.m. and couldn’t get back to sleep. The first excursion of the day was a hike up to the ruins of Chateau Gaillard which was built by Richard the Lionheart in the 12th century. Good thing I had packed my hiking sticks. Some of the less fit folks in our group were wishing they had opted for the other excursion.




After lunch, we set sail for Rouen and had time for a late afternoon guided walk through this historic and charming city.





Dinner tonight is goat cheese mousse, soupe a la choucroute (smooth sauerkraut soup), filet de porc a la Wellington (filet of pork) and made-to-order French crepes.




This fine fellow was the evening entertainment. He was a lot of fun. Here he is dancing with some of the staff. The ship’s staff were amazing the entire week – always so cheerful, efficient, and helpful.
Day 6 – Saturday, April 4
Saturday morning, the excursion took us to a couple of different abbeys. The Normandy countryside is so beautiful. The first stop was the Abbey of Jumeiges, founded in the seventh century.



The next stop was Abbey of Saint Wandrille.



In the afternoon, I visited Honfleur.



Back at the ship, we had a very interesting history lecture on D-Day to prepare us for tomorrow’s excursion.

For dinner, I chose tarte a l’oignon (carmelized French onion tart), soupe aus champignons (smooth mushroom soup), supremes de poulet aux morilles (sun-dried tomato-stuffed chicken breast with morel mushroom sauce, brocolli, and risotto) and creme brulee a la Normandie. This was the most disappointing meal of the trip – the soup needed salt, the chicken was dry and the creme brulee was mediocre at best. Maybe the chef is getting as tired as I am.
The company at dinner was great as usual. I sat with Ron and Suzanne again along with a retired policeman from Canada and his wife.




I was so excited about this dessert…sadly, it missed the mark.
Day 7 – Sunday, April 5
Today’s excursion is the main reason I chose this cruise. I grew up with a fascination for WWII and, as I mentioned before, my dad served in France in the Second War to end all Wars. Therefore, going to Normandy and Omaha Beach has been at or near the top of my bucket list for a very long time.
Our first stop was Pointe du Hoc. I thought I knew about all the famous battles on and around D-Day but this was all new to me. It was very cold and windy on the beach. A heavier coat, stocking cap and gloves would have been nice.






I was feeling the weight of the history of this place all day. Later, while walking by the American Cemetery, I was overcome. I can’t remember a time when I cried like this. Maybe it’s the lack of sleep or maybe I’m just still upset about the creme brulee at last night’s dinner. By the end of the day, I am physically and emotionally spent. Nonetheless, it was an incredibly memorable day and the only regret I have is not being able to spend more time there. I will be back.




Dinner tonight is lemon pepper crusted salmon, soupe aux oignons de style Normand (onion soup), demi queue de langouste (broiled half-rock lobster tail), filet de boeuf entier roti (beef tenderloin with sauce Bernaise). Unfortunately, the lobster is rubbery and the beef is tough. Oh well, no one’s perfect and for the most part, the meals have been outstanding. After a very hard day, I have one more glass of wine that evening than I probably should have. Oh well, at least I’ll sleep hard tonight.




Day 8 – Monday, April 6
Monday I have a bike ride scheduled and because the forecast is for chilly temperatures, it doesn’t start until 10:00 a.m. But, even at that time, it’s just too cold for a bike ride so Alex, the Adventure Host, LIz, and I have a workout together.
Galettes (savory crepes) are on the menu for lunch.
There are no activities planned for the afternoon except for a crepe making demonstration because we are on the water headed back to Paris. I take this opportunity to get a nap, work a bit on this blog, and start packing. Tomorrow is going to be a very early start. Then I headed up to the upper deck for the first time (the weather hadn’t cooperated until today). I got a cool video of the ship going through a lock. Watch below. On the way back to the room, Ron and Suzanne from Dallas invited me to join them for a dice game called Farkle. I scored a come from behind victory on the the last roll. Sweet!!

Last dinner on the boat. Tonight I have pate de porc (French pork pate), potage crecy (smooth carrot soup), carre de agneau al a menthe (herb crusted loin of lamb with ratatouille and soft polenta) and despite the fact that chocolate at dinner keeps me up at night, I go for the mousse a chocolat noir (dark chocolate mousse). What the hell, maybe I’ll sleep on the plane tomorrow. The chef is back in my good graces – excellent final dinner on the boat.




I go right to bed after dinner. I’m wiped out. But in a good way.
Day 9 – Tuesday, April 7
Of course, I don’t sleep well because I have to be up at 5:00 a.m. (and I just had to have that damn chocolate mousse) to get ready for departure. I ride with a couple from New York who I hadn’t yet met on the van to Charles DeGaulle airport. We have a nice visit and they have many questions about my move to Malta. So I tell that story for the umpteenth time. Security is a breeze and I get to enjoy this while waiting to board:
The direct flight is pleasant but for the young person behind me kicking my seat on and off for almost three hours. I decide to ride it out and resist the urge to get up and rip his head off. I’m mellowing in my old age. It’s a bright day and I capture some beautiful pictures from the plane.


My Bolt (European competitor of Uber) driver gets me to the fast ferry in Valletta with 45 seconds to spare. And I’m back to my apartment by 3:00 p.m. where I frantically search my bags for 5 minutes before remembering where I stashed my mailbox key. For those of you who have read my earlier posts, remember when I locked myself out before?
Inside my apartment, I find a puddle of water in the middle of the kitchen floor. An imperfect end to an otherwise perfect trip. And now I have two days to figure out where this water is coming from and get re-packed for my trip to Spain and Morocco. Stay tuned.























































































































































































































































There I said my goodbyes to Djuro and Vinka; then Pavle and I headed to 

































































































































































































































































